To Vent in the Öztal Valley
Von Reinhard Mandl*
Early in the morning, I take the train to Ötztal Station. From there, I continue by bus via Sölden to the Tyrolean mountaineering village of Vent, at 1,900 meters above sea level. Until recently, I never would have dreamed that I could reach such a distant place so comfortably by public transportation! That same day, I hike from Vent up to the highest permanently inhabited farm in Central Europe.
From Vienna to Vent
Exactly seven hours have passed since I left Vienna. The bus reaches its final stop in Vent, at an elevation of about 1,900 meters above sea level. Only if you have your own car would it be possible to continue on to the Rofenhof mountain inn and the Geierwallihof guesthouse, both about one kilometer away. That’s where the asphalt and concrete finally end. However, there’s not just a road leading to the Rofenhöfe—there’s also an exceptionally charming hiking trail that winds its way along the Rofenache up to the highest permanently operated farm in Central Europe.
In the Footsteps of the Stone Age
Traveling light—I’m leaving my large backpack at the hotel in Vent—I set off on a trail that is surprisingly easy to walk and, aside from the wonderful mountain scenery, also features a prehistoric site, as it passes by the remains of a Stone Age hunting camp. I’m walking on a path that people have been known to have traveled on as far back as 10,000 years ago!
Archaeological excavations have revealed that Middle Stone Age hunters and gatherers regularly visited the Rofental valley during the summer months to set out from here on high-altitude hunts for ibex, chamois, or marmots. Where I’m standing now, 7600 BC, people sat in simple huts around a fire pit, processing their game or busy crafting their weapons. Millennia later, in the Early Bronze Age around 2000 BC, shepherds used this plateau at the junction of two valleys as pastureland for sheep and goats.
Haflinger horses, alpine roses, and a spectacular suspension bridge
I come across sheep again today in this special place, and here and there I even spot Haflinger horses. These friendly and sensitive horses roam completely freely in this idyllic landscape. They are perfectly adapted to the austere life in the mountains. Bright red shrubs are blooming all over the landscape. They’re called “Almrausch,” but their actual name is alpine roses, and they belong to the heather family.
Meanwhile, the Rofen farms also come into view. Near the Rofen hamlet, a deeply carved mountain stream plunges down into the valley, flowing into the Rofenache. I cross this roaring stream on a suspension bridge, which offers me impressive views into the deep gorge.
A Stop at the Rofenhof
There are an unexpectedly large number of hikers sitting under large umbrellas on the terrace at the Rofenhof inn. It’s hard to believe that just this morning I was walking toward the subway with a view of St. Stephen’s Cathedral in Vienna! Now I’m sitting up here, thinking back to the moment when I finally found Vent on the map after a long search. I order a large glass of elderflower juice, and the landlady serves it to me personally. Despite the busy atmosphere, she takes the time to chat. She tells me that the Rofenhof properties are owned by the families of three brothers. Two of the Klotz brothers have long made their living from mountain tourism. They run the Geierwalli guesthouse—named after the famous movie that was filmed here—and the mountain inn where I’m currently staying. The third Klotz brother runs a successful Haflinger horse breeding operation in Rofen.
The History of the Rofenhöfe
At first glance, the Rofenhöfe don’t look particularly old. But this impression is deceptive, as farms in this area were first mentioned as early as 1280. Their secluded location—as the highest permanent settlement in the Eastern Alps—granted them various special privileges, such as complete exemption from taxes. In addition, they were able to grant asylum—for example, to Duke Frederick IV, the famous “Friedl with the Empty Pockets,” who found refuge here in the early 15th century.
Through the Rofen Gorge
On Ms. Klotz’s recommendation, after stopping at the inn, I continue hiking a short distance along the Rofenache toward the Hochjoch Hospice. On an easy trail, I cross fantastic mountain meadows where many herbs and flowers are in bloom, such as the pretty yellow alpine pasqueflower. Soon I reach the spectacular Rofen Gorge. The path through the rocky terrain, secured with ropes, grows narrower and narrower, and deep below me, the Rofenache rushes by. The innkeeper didn’t exaggerate—I’m overwhelmed by this view!
Vent—a mountaineering village worth returning to
At my hotel in Vent, a delicious dinner featuring meat from Tyrolean mountain sheep awaits me. The animals are raised on the farm and graze at over 3,000 meters above sea level in the summer. Most people in the mountaineering village of Vent make their living from tourism, but the tourist infrastructure isn’t designed to handle large crowds.
“Mountaineering villages” are generally smaller communities with extensive alpine expertise. Most of them have opted for independent and, as sustainable as possible, economic development. What makes Vent so attractive is its picturesque alpine setting, with numerous 3,000-meter peaks in view, and the wide variety of hiking trails. Most of them lead to mountain huts like the Similaun Hut, which serve as base camps for high-alpine mountaineering tours.
The next day, I hike up to the Ramolalm, which offers me a fantastic view of the Wildspitze, the highest peak in the Ötztal Alps. And on the day of my departure, I explore the Niedertal valley before breakfast. I hike all the way to the Niederlab alpine hut.
With a touch of sadness, I board the bus shortly before ten; I would have liked to stay longer. Upon my arrival at Ötztal-Bahnhof, I’m faced with a difficult decision: Take the next train back to Vienna, or perhaps continue on to Vorarlberg after all?
This text is an abridged version, edited by the author, of Chapter 18 of his book Österreich mit dem KlimaTicket entdecken – 20 Ausflüge mit Bus und Bahn